Welcome to the second part of our pockets tutorial for the Zinnia Skirt. Today we’ll be talking about in-seam pockets, which are the type of pocket used in Versions 2 of the Zinna pattern.
As the name suggests, in-seam pockets are sewn into the side seams of the skirt. The pocket is constructed out of two identical pouch shaped pieces of fabric. One piece is sewn to the front of the skirt and the other in the same position on the back. When the side seams of the front and back are brought together, the pouch shaped pieces are sewn together also, thus creating a pocket that is accessible from the exterior of the skirt.
Here's how we made our in-seam pocket:
STEP 1 – Match the markings (blue dots) of your pocket piece with the markings on your skirt.
Note that we've already ran an overlocker around the edges of our pattern pieces. We chatted about this in Part 5 of our Sewalong, which was all about seam finishes.
STEP 2 – Position your pocket piece so that the markings are sitting directly above the ones on the skirt. Remember that your pocket should be pointing towards the bottom of your skirt. Just think about the way your hand will go into it.
STEP 3 – Stitch from the top corner of your pocket to the bottom at 4/8” seam allowance. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitch.
STEP 4 – Fold your pocket outwards and press the seam from the right side. Turn both pieces of fabric over and press from the wrong side. The seam allowances should be pressed towards the pocket.
STEP 5 – Repeat steps 1-4 for all your pocket pieces. Having done this you should have a pocket piece sewn at the left and right side seam of both your Front and Back Skirt pieces.
STEP 6 – Lay out your Back Skirt piece with the right side facing up. Now lay your Front Skirt piece over the top of it, with the right sides facing each other. Align the side seams of the Front and Back skirt pieces, and the perimeter of your pocket pieces. Pin in place, about every inch or so.
STEP 7 – Starting at the top of your skirt, and using 5/8” seam allowance, sew the side seam until your reach the first placement marking. At this marking, pivot, then sew around the perimeter of the pocket. At the second marking, pivot again and then sew to the bottom of the skirt, remembering to backstitch at the end.
Remember that when you pivot to lift up the foot, but keep the needle in the fabric.
STEP 8 – Press the seam allowance towards the front of the skirt. (note - If you press it towards the back, your pocket will sit in the wrong direction!)
Voila! This is the finished pocket, shown from the outside.